FOILING: MAXIMUM MOHAWK COVERAGE
Every colorist knows the feeling when a client sits down in your chair and the first thing you see is 5-6 inches of dark roots and then 12+ inches of platinum blonde hair… especially when you know they want to get as light as possible in one session. Intimidating.
With the right placement and stitch pattern and plan of attack, there is no need to feel intimidated by the amount of foiling you’ll have to do to get rid of that harsh line of demarcation!
In this week’s blog post I wanted to share a targeted video tutorial on how to tackle a dark regrowth when the client has waited 4-7 months from the last highlight. Any colorist can pack in 75 foils and hope the line of demarcation disappears. However, if you don’t change your foiling stitch from foil to foil and section to section, that stubborn line of demarcation will show through your new foils defeating the purpose of the session.
Here is a step by step layout of how to change your foil stitching down the mohawk for maximum coverage! To understand the ridges I’ll be talking about in the layout below, check out the Head Shape Video Tutorial in the previous blog post.
Mohawk foiling starting at the front hairline:
Subsection= the amount of buffer hair you leave between each foil. Note, back to back foils do not have subsections. When you pick up the hair you're about to stitch, if you stitch completely through that section, then there is no subsection. A subsection is usually a fine slice of hair left out/not highlighted between foils.
From hairline to second bang ridge:
10 stitch foil
Sheer slice foil (Small subsection)
Sheer slice foil (Small subsection)
Sheer slice foil (Small subsection)
Why? A 10 stitch foil creates a diffused bold hairline and prevents any harsh stripes when the client pulls their hair back while the sheer slices create a bold money piece.
From second bang ridge to peak of the head:
8 stitch foil (No subsection)
Sheer slice foil (Small subsection)
Continue to the peak or highest point of mohawk section
Why? An 8 stitch foil diffuses the highlights but still provides coverage while the slice add a bolder pop of dimension.
Now switch to foiling from back round of the head:
10 stitch foil (Small subsection)
5 stitch foil (Small subsection)
Continue until you reach the last foil from front of mohawk section
Why? A 10 inch stitch visually diffuses the line of demarcation when followed by a stronger stitch pattern.
Reminder, your mohawk foilings should go completely across the section and almost touch your side sections! Don't leave an area between your side sections and the mohawk because this makes it easier to see the old line of demarcation when dry!
Hope this helps tackle root coverage for you blondes!
XOXO
Bobby
